Obwohl China Airlines nachgewiesen die unsicherste Airline der Welt ist, ist unser Flug großartig: ein super moderner Flieger, gutes Essen, top Entertainment Programm. Es gibt sogar eine Chat-Funktion, mit der man via des Monitors einen beliebigen Platz mit einer Message anfunken kann!
Nach der Landung stehen wir kurz an der Passkontrolle, bei der auch die Zeigefinger gescannt werden. Man braucht kein Visum, sondern nun einen noch mindestens 6 Monate gültigen Pass sowie ein Weiterflugticket, was auch gecheckt wird.
Wir kaufen eine Easycard, mit der man öffentliche Verkehrsmittel nutzen kann aber und auch in Geschäften wie 7/11 oder Family Mart bezahlen kann. Dann nehmen wir den Express-Zug in die Stadt. Hier kann man alle möglichen Arten von Handys aufladen und ich nutze die Zeit, alle Sachen, die ich in Sydney zu Taipeh rausgesucht hatte, im Stadtplan einzuzeichnen und eine Express-Sightseeingplanung für die nächsten 3 Tage zusammenzustellen.
Unser Hotel, das Citizen M, ist keine 10min zu Fuß von der Endhaltestelle, dem Hauptbahnhof, entfernt. Im Eingangsbereich gibt es statt einer Rezeption mehrere Monitore, wo man sich selber einchecken kann inkl. Erstellen der Zimmerkarte – verrückt! Auch das Zimmer ist total abgefahren: Mit dem iPad kann man die Raumtemperatur regulieren, Vorhang und Rollo, Licht (Helligkeit und diverse Farben) einstellen sowie verschiedenen Moods wie Party oder Romance einschalten. Außerdem bedient man damit den Fernseher, kann die aktuelle Temperatur bzw. Wettervoraussage sehen und den Wecker einstellen.
Wir haben schon nach 22 Uhr, aber wir sind ja nur einige Abende hier und so machen wir uns nochmal auf. Max. 10min die Straße runter ist das Shoppingviertel Ximending: einige Straßenblöcke mit bunt angeleuchteten Geschäften – eine Mischung aus renommierten Ketten, lokalen Restaurants / Snackbuden und kleinen Geschäften, die z.B. Handyzubehoer verkaufen. Es ist relativ voll und die meisten Geschäfte haben noch geöffnet. Obwohl viele Leute unterwegs sind, ist es hier nicht überfüllt, sondern irgendwie sehr geordnet, gar nicht chaotisch und man fühlt sich sicher. Wir sehen einen Imbiss, vor dem eine rieisige Schlange wartet, und da wir etwas Hunger haben, stellen wir uns einfach mal an – das muss ja gut sein! Wie schon am Flughafen und in der Bahn gibt es auch in der Fußgängerzone WLAN und so googele ich den Laden direkt mal während wir in der Schlange stehen. Leider stelle ich bei meiner Recherche fest, dass der Laden bekannt für seine Nudelsuppe mit Schweinedarm ist. Na Bravo! Wir bestellen aber trotzdem, man muss die Fleischeinlage ja nicht mitessen. Das Ganze ist sehr gut organisiert. Man bestellt und zahlt, bekommt einen ausgedruckten Zettel mit der Bestellung und geht damit zur Essensausgabe einen Meter weiter. Dort arbeiten 2 Köche – einer rührt im Rekordtempo die Nudeln in einem großen Topf und füllt sie in die Becher. Wieder ein Stück weiter stehen Gewürze, Soßen, mit denen man die Suppe noch verfeinern kann. Und wenn man dann einmal fertig ist mit Essen, wird auch der Müll systematisch entsorgt: Rest werden in einen Eimer gekippt, leere Becher in einer Kiste gestapelt und der Restmüll wie Löffel und Servietten kommen einen Müllbeutel. Die Suppe hat irgendein Gewürz, was ich total ekelig finde und die schwimmenden Schweinedarm-Stücke sehen auch nicht gerade appetitlich aus. Meine Portion landet also komplett im Speisereste-Eimer, während Dino tapfer sein Essen isst (im Grunde nur, um mir zu demonstrieren, dass ich übertreibe und das Essen doch ganz lecker ist). Wir machen uns auf den Nachhauseweg und ich finde unterwegs leider nichts zu Essen, was mich irgendwie anspricht. Da alles auf Chinesisch beschrieben ist, weiß man ja auch nicht, was man gerade bestellt. Es gibt Tintenfisch, Hühnchen, einige süße Sachen, Bubbletea und alles mögliche weitere Undefinierbare. Außerdem einige Läden, in denen nur einarmige Banditen stehen. Zurück im Hotel gehen wir noch in die Bar, wo ich jetzt endlich mein Abendessen bekomme: eine Tüte mit Schokowaffeln.
Am nächsten Morgen stehen wir früh auf und fahren mit der Bahn zur Chiang Kai-Shek (langjähriger Führer / Diktator in Taiwan) Memorial Hall. Da wir bis zum Wachwechsel, der zu jeder vollen Stunde stattfindet, noch viel Zeit haben, suchen wir erstmal was zu frühstücken, was sich als nicht so einfach herausstellt. Fast alles hat noch zu und wir sind sehr froh, als wir nach 15min Herumirren endlich einen Laden finden, in dem man diverse Backwaren bekommt. Im Park vor dem Memorial machen Leute Gymnastik bzw hauen sich auf den Po?! Seltsam. Immer wieder sehen wir in den kommenden Tagen Menschen, die behäbig Gymnastik oder Dehnübungen machend durch Parks oder Straßen laufen. Der Chiang-Kai Shek Komplex ist sehr schön, weitläufig und die beiden Gebäude mit rotem „chinesichen Dach“ bieten einen schönen Kontrast zum weiß-blauen Eingangstor und Memorialhalle. Beim Wachwechsel drängeln sich alle in der Halle und ca. 90% aller Besucher filmen das Ganze auch. Vor lauter Handys kann man die ausgeklügelte Choreografie der Soldaten gar nicht so richtig sehen – die erinnert mich mit ihren überzogenen Posen und hochgeschmissenen Beinen doch tatsächlich an die Parade an der Wagah Border zu Pakistan. Es ist mittlerweile so voll, dass ich gar nicht weiß, wo Dino in dem Getümmel steckt. Als die Wachwechselzeremonie langsam zuende geht und die Soldaten zurück marschieren, höre ich ein Klatschen hinter mir, das vereinzelt andere Besucher zu animiert, dies auch zu tun. Ich denke mir „das könnte glatt mein Vater sein“ und drehe mich um. Was sehe ich? Dino, wie er in der Menge steht und klatscht. Irgendwann beim Verlassen des Komplexes finden wir zufällig eine Filiale von MOS Burger unter eine Brücke und bekommen endlich Kaffee! Man kann alle Kaffees kalt (mit Eis) oder warm bestellen und da es hier einige riesige Kaffeeauswahl gibt, sind wir sehr dankbar dafür, dass es auch eine Karte mit Englisch drauf gibt. Wir bestellen Matcha Café Latte, weil es einfach so viele abgefahrene Sachen auf der Karte gibt – muss man aber nicht nochmal trinken 🙂
Gleich gegenüber ist eine Youbike-Station, wo wir uns unsere ersten Fahrräder holen. Diese sind eigentlich wie die Call-a-Bike Stationen in Deutschland oder die Santander Bikes in London und man findet sie alle paar Meter. Nach ein paar Minuten sind wir schon an der Yongkang Street. Das ist anscheinend eine eher schickere kleine Straße (aber auch wie fast alle mit Radweg) mit Cafés & Boutiquen. Ein Stück weiter kommt man zum Daan Forrest Park. Schon am Eingang gefällt er uns gut, weil es dort diverse Skulpturen, Kunstinstallationen und bunte Figuren gibt. Wir halten uns sehr lange im Park auf, weil es so viel zu entdecken gibt: viele Familien haben sich hier auf Decken und teilweise mit Zelten zum Picknicken niedergelassen und der riesige Kinderspielplatz ist total voll (heute ist nämlich Sonntag). Es gibt einen Rollerskater-Rink und wir beobachten einen Kinder-Skater-Kurs. Alle haben Helme und sämtliche andere Schoner an und „skaten“ im Schleichtempo hinter den Trainern hinterher. Später dürfen sie dann eine Runde auf dem Rink drehen und am Ende gibt es sehr ausführliche Dehnübungen zusammen mit Sprachchören (der Trainer ruft was und die Kinder rufen zurück). Wir könnten hier stundenlang zuschauen, es ist so kurios! Wir sehen auch ein Paar, das unter einem Pavillion gerade von einem ganzen Team gestylt wird, um sein Hochzeitsshooting zu machen und kommen vorbei am Chihuahua-Treff, wo sich einfach alle mit Chihuahau Hunden – meist sind diese in einer Art Kinderwagen untergebracht- niedergelassen haben und wo diverse Accessoires für die Hunde von einem Moderatoren-Team mit Mikro verkauft werden. Ein Stück weiter wird gerade ein Werbespot für eine Versicherung gedreht. Die Dame, die die Versicherungsverkäuferin sein soll, steht mit den Absätzen auf einem Stück Holz, damit sie nicht in den Boden einsinkt und erklärt mit einer aufgeklappten Dokumetenmappe in der Hand der um sie herumstehenden Gruppe welche Leistungen ihre Versicherung hat. Super Szene – ob es wohl in Taiwan die Norm ist, dass man Beratungsgespräche zu Versicherungen stehend in der Gruppe im Park führt?!
Nach über einer Stunde im Park holen wir uns wieder Räder und fahren zum Sun Yat-sen (der Gründer und erste Präsident der Republik China, wie Taiwan offiziell genannt wird) Memorial. In der großen Halle steht eine Statue, die genauso aussieht, wie am ersten Memorial: ein Mann, der auf einem überdimensional großen Trohn sitzt, daneben zwei Taiwan Flaggen und davor zwei Soldaten. Auch hier gibt es stuendlich einen Wachwechsel. Die Wachen werden abwechselnd von der Navy, Army und Airforce gestellt. Dino fragt einen Sicherheitsmann, der dort arbeitet, und ab und zu an den beiden still stehenden Soldaten herumzuppelt (Schlaufe am Revers richten o.ä), ob die Soldaten von der Army, Navy oder Airforce sind und wie alt der rechte ist (er sieht aus wie 13, ist aber anscheinend schon 21-24). Nachdem sich beide schweigend den Soldaten ansehen, der keine Miene verzieht, fragt Dino: „Can I tickle?“. Ich kann nicht mehr vor Lachen!
Auf dem Plateau, das die Halle umgibt, sieht man viele Gruppen von Jugendlichen, die Pop- bzw. HipHop Musik dabei haben und tanzen bzw. Choreos einüben. Dino tanzt bei den ein oder anderen unbemerkt mit. Wir laufen ein Stück, kommen zufällig vorbei an einem Shoppingcenter inkl. Foodcourt und wittern die Chance, etwas – idealerweise landestypisches – zu Essen zu finden, was uns schmeckt (bisher waren wir damit ja nicht sooo erfolgreich). Und tatsächlich, Dino findet etwas Leckeres und ich mehrere Kleinigkeiten wie eine Art Germknödel mit Kohl gefüllt und Shrimp-Dim Sum. Mich auf einer kulinarischen Erfolgswelle wähnend bestelle ich auch gleich noch einen Nachtisch: Tofupudding mit Erdnüssen und einer süßen Soße. Kurz gesagt: das kann man einfach nicht essen. Es ist ein wabbeliges weißes Etwas und die Erdnüsse wurden gefühlt mindestens drei Jahre in Wasser eingelegt und sind jetzt glubschige wässrige Klümpchen. Dazu ein fieses Gelee – erneut wandert leider ein komplettes Gericht in den Müll. Kurz danach führt Dino uns durch eine riesige Süß- & Backwarenabteilung, und Dino erklärt mir mehrfach, was ich alles Leckeres hätte essen können, wenn ich nicht mit so einem „Tofu-Pudding-Nonsense“ rum experimentieren würde.
Weiter geht es zum „Taipei 101“, dem höchsten Gebäude Taiwans und derzeit siebt-höchsten der Welt. Oder, wie man dort lernt, auch das weltweit höchste GRÜNE Gebäude. Wie auch immer, wir holen uns Tickets und sind mit dem Aufzug in 37 Sekunden im 91. Stock. Zwischendurch muss man bestimmt 2x einen Druckausgleich machen. Leider ist die Sicht nicht so toll, weil es sich etwas zugezogen hat, aber wir bekommen einen ganz guten Überblick über die Stadt. Im unteren Teil des Gebäudes findet man alle rennomierten Luxusmarken der Welt: Dior, Tiffanys, Hermes, Harry Winston, Versace….
Wir radeln weiter zum Fuße des Elephant Mountain, der sich am Stadtrand befindet. Ca. 20min lang quälen wir uns in der schwülen Luft hunderte von Stufen nach oben und kommen dort fix und fertig an. Oben müssen wir noch eine Weile warten, bis die Dämmerung eintritt und bis es dann ganz dunkel wird. Man hat hier jetzt wirklich einen tollen Blick auf die Stadt inkl. Taipei 101. An einer Stelle gibt es kleine Felsen und vor diesen gibt es jeweils eine Schlange von Menschen, die brav warten, dass sie einer nach dem anderen auf den Felsen steigen können, um ein Foto zu machen. Andere klettern auf der Aussichtsplattform auf Bäume, um ein gutes Foto zu schießen. Wie immer ist es einfach sehr amüsant, die Fotohysterie der Asiaten zu beobachten! Der Weg runter geht irgendwie schneller und während wir runter gehen begegnen uns diverse abgekämpfte Leute, die die Treppen hoch zur Aussichtsplattform wandern. Wenn jemand besonders unfit und abekämpft aussieht, motiviert Dino: „You are almost there! Not too far anymore“. Leider sagt er dies auch zu Leuten, die gerade mal weniger als 1/4 der Strecke gelaufen sind und nun im Glauben weiterlaufen, fast angekommen zu sein.
Unten angekommen radeln wir erneut durch die Stadt – zum Raohe Night Market ein paar Kilometer weiter. Man geht durch ein angeleuchtetes Tor und auf der Straße dahinter gibt es: Spielhöllen, viele Essensstände, Socken, eingeschweißte Schuhe und Caps (vermutlich, damit sie nicht die „Düfte“ von den Essenständen annehmen), gegrilltes Fleisch, Mini-Tintenfische, viel Bubbletea und anderen Tee sowie Säfte, Dumplings, Wärmflaschen usw. Zwischendurch muss man sehr schnell gehen, weil die Gerüche einfach teilweise unerträglich sind. Wir beschließen beide recht schnell, dass wir uns nicht lange hier auf diesem Night Market aufhalten wollen und ziehen das Tempo an.
Am Ende sehen wir einen toll beleuchteten Tempel, vor und in dem ganz viele bunte Laternen und Lampions hängen. Wir sind zufällig am Songchan Ciyou Tempel gelandet, den ich mir im Vorfeld so gerne anschauen wollte! Am Platz gegenüber hängen auch Laternen und man sieht große beleuchtete Lampion-Statuen, von denen wir in den kommenden Tagen noch viele sehen werden – vermutlich noch Überbleibsel des Latern-Festivals, was hier vor einigen Tagen zuende gegangen ist.
Mit der Bahn fahren wir zurück zum Hotel. Dort wird uns ein Hot Pot Restaurant ganz in der Nähe empfohlen, an dem wir gestern schon vorbeigegangen sind. Alle sitzen rund herum um eine Theke und haben ein Becken vor sich, in das der Hot Pot kommt. Wir bestellen Angus Beef, weil das am unverfänglichsten klingt und bekommen dazu eine Platte mit diversen Sachen, die man im Hot Pot garen soll. Salat, Pilze, diverse Fishcakes (klingt lecker, aber sie sind total eklig), gekochtes Ei, diverse andere Sachen aus Ei und Tofu, ein Würstchen – ich ignoriere diese Platte vollkommen und esse nur den außerden enthaltenen Reis, mit Koriander, Soße und Stücken vom Fleisch. Nach diesem medium erfolgreichen Abendessen laufen wir zurück zum Hotel.
Am zweiten Morgen schlafen wir aus und holen uns wieder Fahrräder und fahren am Ufer des Tamsui Flusses entlang nach Norden bis zur Dihua Street. Es gibt hier einen super Fahrradweg – in beide Richtungen, fast so was wie eine Fahrrad-Autobahn. Zunächst durchqueren wir einen Teil der Dihua Street (diese ist bekannt dafür, noch den chinesischen Charm alter Zeiten zu haben), der einfach nur Wohngebiet ist. Die Häuser hier haben maximal 2-3 Stockwerke und sind eher einfach. An vielen Häuser sieht man Wäsche, eigentlich immer alles aufgehängt auf Bügel, inkl. der (teilweise doch ziemlich großen) Unterhosen. Weiter die Straße runter kommen Geschäfte – teilweise sehr traditionell – Lampen, Reis, Gewürze, dumpling Körbe usw -, teilweise recht modern und hip: Cafes, Klamottengeschäfte, Teeläden…
Am Ende der Straße kommen wir zu einem Platz mit dem Xia Hai City God Temple, wo wir eine Weile bleiben und das Geschehen beobachten. Die Leute kaufen Räucherstäbchen neben dem Tempel, nehmen einen Stapel eingeschlagenes Papier*, der vor dem Tempel liegt und gehen mit beidem in der Hand herein. Drinnen stehen sie vor einer Statue, ein Priester (?) legt auf ihr Päckchen ein Schriftstück, sie verbeugen sich, gehen um einen Tisch herum und machen mit ihrem Päckchen 3 Kreise über brennenden Kerzen. Schließlich zünden sie dann vor dem Tempel die Räucherstäbchen an und verbrennen das Papier.
Ein paar Kilomenter weiter ist der Longshan Temple, der bekannteste Tempel der Stadt. Er ist sehr groß und erstreckt sich über mehrere Innenhöfe. Natürlich findet man auch hier – im ersten Innenhof – den obligatorischen Lampion Hund (es sit das Jahr des Hundes). Die Leute stellen sich geordnet an, um einer nach dem anderen unter dieser Figur zu beten. Im nächsten Hof sieht man ganz viele Leute betend vor einem großen Tisch mit Essensgaben. Auch hier werden wieder die Papierstapel über den Kerzen geschwenkt, Räucherstäbchen angezündet und Papierstapel verbrannt*. Weiter hinten im nächsten Hof gibt es ebenfalls Tische für Essens- und Blumengaben, so wie viele kleine „Kapellen“, in denen unterschiedliche Statuen stehen (z.B. Konfuzius) und vor denen die Leute beten.
*ich habe das später recherchiert: Taiwaner verbrennen bündelweise „Geistergeld“ – dicke gelbe Papierscheine, die als Rauch aufsteigen und so bei den Ahnen ankommen. Nach dem selben Prinzip trägt beim Gebet der Qualm von Räucherstäbchen die Gedanken nach oben.
Allmählich haben wir Hunger und machen und auf der Suche nach Mittagessen. Leider finden wir aber nur Taiwanesisches Essen, was hauptsächlich aus Fleisch (man weiß nicht welches oder welche Teile) oder Tintenfisch (der schon ewig in der Sonne lag) besteht. Wir laufen u.a. auch durch einen Nightmarket, auf dem es tagsüber auch schon zu essen gibt. Aber sobald wir uns entschlossen haben, an einem Stand, wo viel los ist, zu essen, schauen wir uns das Essen genauer an und entscheiden uns dagegen. Statt Essen finden wir aber viele Massagesalons und entscheiden uns spontan zu einer 30min whole Body Massage. Die Massage ist wirklich großartig und als ich danach einen meiner Arme kaum anheben kann, massiert die Frau mir das in 2 Minuten kurz wieder weg. Hunger haben wir aber weiterhin und suchen nach einem Restaurant, das kein chinesisches Essen anbietet. Als wir endlich einen Sushiladen finden hat dieser gerade Mittagspause. Ein sehr netter Taiwanese spricht uns an und zeigt uns einen lokalen Foodcourt, nennt uns dann aber als Alternative auch noch ein größeres Shoppingcenter, in dem es etwas zu essen geben soll. Dort werden wir endlich fündig! Witzigerweise Chinesisch: Fried Rice, diverse dumplings und Zwiebel-Pfannekuchen. Gestärkt laufen wir vorbei am presidential office building zum 2/28 Peace Park, der dem 228 Massaker gedenkt, bei dem im Nachkriegstaiwain 1947 ca. 30.000 Zivilisten von der Regierung getötet wurden. Vor dem Denkmal dort steht ein Mann und spielt zu klassischer Musik Querflöte. Wir sitzen dort eine Weile und laufen dann zum Hotel. Nach Top-Cocktails im „livingroom“ des Hotels schauen wir dann im Zimmer einige Folgen Good Wife und mein Abendessen besteht wieder aus einer Packung Keksen (wir haben ja erst nach 17h zu mittag gegessen und jetzt noch etwas zu suchen, haben wir keine Lust).
Am nächsten Morgen fahren wir mit der Bahn nach Songshan, wo der Domestic Airport der Stadt ist. Wir kommen direkt am Flughafen an, laufen an einem großen Gelände, das mit hohen Mauern und Stacheldraht aussieht, wie vom Militär, und fragen uns, ob es hier in der Nähe wirklich ein Hipsterviertel gibt, so wie ich das recherchiert habe. Dann biegen wir aber in die Fujin Street ein und sehen die ersten coolen Läden. Im Fujin „252 Tree“ frühstücken wir erstmal sehr lecker und schlendern dann durch die Straßen. Es gibt mehrere Fahrradläden, die super hippe und teure Räder verkaufen und Dino begeistern, Klamotten- und Schuhgeschäfte sowie ganz viele Restaurants & Cafes, die auch häufig irgendwie „2in1-Konzepte“ sind, also z.B. gleichzeitig Boutique, Co-Working Space oder Frisörsalon. Im „Pinecone“ snacken wir noch etwas – dieses Restaurant hat wie viele andere hier einen coolen Style, mit Bäumen bzw. kahlen Ästen als Deko, sowie von der Decke hängenden Baldachinen und einem wilden Mix aus Retrostühlen. Wir gehen noch durch weitere – meist kleinere und sehr grüne Straßen in der Gegend. Auch Interior Design Geschäfte findet man hier en masse.
Mit dem Bus (gar nicht so einfach, auf dem chinesischen Busfahrplan herauszufinden, wo man ist und wo man hinmöchte…) fahren wir dann zur blauen Bahn-Linie. Für den Bus, der witzigerweise innen mit Stofftieren dekoriert ist, kann man ebenfalls die Easy Card nutzen.
Nach ein paar Stationen mit der Bahn kommen wir dann am Huashan 1914 Creative Park an. Das Gelände einer ehemaligen Weinfabrik ist jetzt Hipsterviertel mit Gallerien, Kino, Bars, Cafes und Geschäften. Außerdem finden hier Konzerte statt und das Centre Pompidou zeigt hier gerade eine Ausstellung für Kinder. Im Cafe „Taiwan Mama“ zieht man die Schuhe aus, dann ist der blaue Boden die Sitzfläche und für die Füße gibt es eine Aushöhlung im Boden. Die chinesische Familie, die nach uns dort ankommt, macht daher erstmal 10min Fotosession.
Danach nehmen wir die Bahn nach Ximen, verbringen eine Weile im Uniqlo und laufen dann zum Hotel. Hier nutzen wir das schnelle Internet ein letztes Mal und laden im Expressverfahren schnell ein paar gute Bilder aus Taiwan hoch – das dauert sonst immer ewig. Dann fahren wir mit der Bahn zum Flughafen, kommen schnell durch die Security und Immigration (Dino muss sogar nur den Finger auflegen und muss noch nichtmal den Pass zeigen!) und essen dort im Restaurant. Mit einer Stunde Verspätung fliegen wir gegen Mitternacht los.
Wir sind froh, dass wir spontan hier waren!
Taipeh können wir auf jeden Fall weiterempfehlen!
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