Franz Josef Gletscher – Isthmus Peak – Matukituki Valley – Wanaka

Vor der Abfahrt aus Hokitika machen wir noch einen Abstecher zum Hokitika Gorge, wo man ein Stück durch den Wald läuft, um zu einem wirklich extrem türkisfarbenen Fluss zu kommen, über den auch eine Hängebrücke führt. Super schön!

Im Regen kommen wir einige Stunden später im Franz Josef Village an und buchen uns im Rainforrest Retreat Holiday Park einen Stellplatz. Umgeben von Palmen und tropischen Pflanzen stehen hier alle Camper mit den schneebedeckten Bergen im Hintergrund – eine sehr schöne Kulisse! Vor dem Abendessen steht noch ein Walk zum Tartare Tunnel an, in dem es Glühwürmchen geben soll. Nach ca. 40min durch den Regenwald kommt man zum Tunnel, der max 1m breit und 2m hoch ist und in dem unten ca. knöcheltief eiskaltes Wasser steht. Wir haben extra Schuhe an, die komplett nass werden können. Wir waten recht lange durchs Wasser und warten, dass sich irgendwo ein Raum mit den Glühwürmchen auftut, aber irgendwann kommen wir einfach am Tunnelende an und stehen plötzlich wieder im Freien. Als wir wieder in den Tunnel zurückgehen und unsere Headlights ausschalten sehen wir dann ein paar Glühwürmchen – allerdings nicht so viele, als dass es sich gelohnt hätte, dafür jetzt 20 min durchs eiskalte Wasser zu waten… Am Campingplatz nutzen wir das dortige BBQ fürs Abendessen und gehen dann noch rüber zur „Monsoon Bar“. Hier erinnert uns alles an Apres Ski (Holzvertäfelung, viele Gruppen von feiernden und trinkenden 20 jährigen) und es spielt sogar eine Live Band!

Den nächsten Tag beginnen wir mit dem Glacier Valley Walk zum sichtbaren Ende vom Franz Josef Glacier. Eigentlich wollten wir den wirklich toll klingenden Robert´s Point Track machen, aber weil es die ganze Nacht geregnet hat, wurde uns davon abgeraten, weil alle Wege und Steigungen sehr rutschig sein werden. Der Walk ist relativ unspektakulär, aber unterwegs sieht man ein paar kleine Wasserfälle, an denen jeweils Regenbogen sind, was cool aussieht. Später machen wir noch einen kurzen Walk am Lake Matheson im Fox Village. Leider ist das Wasser nicht ganz ruhig, so dass man hier nicht sehen kann, wie sich die Berge inkl. Gletscher im Wasser spiegeln. Dennoch ist es ein sehr schöner Spaziergang! Wir fahren weiter und steuern am späten Nachmittag die Kidds Bush Reserve an, wo wir unser Lager für die Nacht aufschlagen. Die Campsite ist von der Straße nicht ausgeschildert und die letzten Kilometer geht es über eine Gravelroad (Schotterstraße) und vorbei an Schafherden. Wir parken mit Blick auf den Lake Hawea, stellen erstmal unseren Tisch und Stühle auf und machen eine Flasche Weißwein auf. Die killen wir quasi schon vor dem Abendessen und später zaubert Dino uns Pasta mit Tomatensauce und Thunfisch, was in diesem Moment das perfekte Abendessen ist.

Am nächsten Morgen soll es erst nach 10h aufklaren, daher stehen wir später auf und frühstücken in Ruhe mit Blick auf den See. Nach kurzer Fahrt sind wir am Parkplatz, wo der heutige Track beginnt: der Isthmus Peak Track. Im Nieselregen marschieren wir los und es geht gleich ziemlich stetig steil nach oben. Eine Weile ist das Wetter sehr unbeständig und wechselt zwischen Regen, Wind und Sonnenschein. Die Wolken über Lake Hawea sehen teilweise ganz toll aus, weil sie wie Rauch aus dem Wasser aufsteigen und ganz tolle Formen haben. Nach ca zwei Stunden machen wir die erste Pause mit Blick auf den See und ziehen uns das erste Mal um: die Merinoshirts sind total durchnässt und so wechseln wir in unsere Fleecejacken. Auf geht es zum Gipfel! Jetzt sehen wir immer mehr Leute (also max 15 am ganzen Tag), die in beide Richtungen gehen, es kann also nicht mehr so weit sein! Nach 30 min (also nach insgesamt 2 1/2 Stunden) sind wir dann endlich da! Oben angekommen sieht man nun beide Seen: Lake Wanaka und Lake Hawea. Lake Hawea ist mehr türkisblau und da es an dieser Seite des Gipfels auch nicht so windig ist, lassen wir uns hier nieder. Inzwischen scheint die Sonne. Vorher haben wir nochmal die Belgier wieder getroffen, die ich unten am Parkplatz kurz kennengelernt hatte. Sie erzählen von Bekannten, die 6 Monate lang alle möglichen Walks in Neuseeland gemacht haben und dieser Walk war wohl eines der 2 Besten aus deren Sicht! Das können wir gut nachvollziehen. Zurück geht es dann – wieder im neuen Outfit (diesmal inzwischen getrocknete Merinoshirts mit Dauenjacke) erstmal zügig voran bergab. Zwischendurch gehen wir vorbei an Schafen, die ausgiebig mähen und nicht sehr menschenscheu sind. Und die ganze Zeit schaut man auf den türkisen und jetzt in der Sonne liegenden Lake Hawea – ein Traumblick!

Nach knapp unter 7 Stunden sind wir wieder am Auto und fahren nach Glendhu Bay in der Nähe von Wanaka. Auf der Campsite finden einen tollen Platz für den Camper direkt am Wasser und setzen uns dort erstmal in Ruhe hin. Abends kocht Dino wieder und wir stoßen nochmal auf den tollen Tag heute an.

Am nächsten Morgen klingelt der Wecker wieder um 6.30 h, weil wir früh unsere nächste Wanderung machen wollen – ab mittags soll es regnen. Genießen aus dem Bett noch kurz den Blick auf den See, machen dann Frühstück und Proviant und los gehts ins Matukituki Valley. Im Camper geht es 50 min lang über eine Gravel Road. Wir sehen sehr viele Schafe und Kühe und müssen mit dem Auto über viele kleine Brücken und durch einige Creeks fahren. Teilweise ist blauer Himmel, teilweise sind die Berge wolkenverhangen und so fahren wir die ganze Zeit auf einen Regenbogen zu! Hoch motiviert laufen wir los durchs Tal, aber es ist extrem windig und langsam ziehen mehr Wolken auf. Ein Wanderer, der gerade von der Aspiring Hut zurückkommt, meint, dass man dort wegen des Wetters leider gar nicht viel sieht. Also drehen wir um – sind ja ohnehin noch total platt von gestern. Nachdem wir unseren Proviant am Parkplatz gegessen haben, fahre ich uns zu unserer heutigen Unterkunft. Während Dino tief und fest schläft, schmettere ich Karnevalsschnulzen und genieße die Fahrt durchs wunderschöne Tal bis nach Wanaka.

Dann machen wir uns auf in die Stadt, Wanaka – es ist total windig! Bis gestern fand hier ein großer Triathlon Wettbewerb statt, was Dino total begeistert. Wir holen uns Eiskaffee und buchen dann eine Kayak-Tour im Doubtful Sound. Der ist nicht so weit abgelegen wie der Milford Sound und außerdem weniger überlaufen. Zurück an der Campsite lernen wir Aaron und Chris von der Westküste der USA kennen, die mit dem Rad durch Neuseeland unterwegs sind. Dann grillen wir und gehen ziemlich früh ins Bett.

167 thoughts on “Franz Josef Gletscher – Isthmus Peak – Matukituki Valley – Wanaka

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